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Theory RTW Fall 2024: An Everyday Approach to the Modern Uniform

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“Spring, the last collection, was all about the uniform, and I wanted to keep that going, but I was thinking about, ‘What is a woman’s wardrobe?’ For all women; a more daytime [feel] and for seven days a week — for all aspects of their life. Starting in that way, wanting it to feel very relaxed,” Theory’s chief merchant and creative officer Jeffrey Kalinsky said during a preview of Theory’s fall collection. Whereas in spring he was focused on creating the perfect red, fall was all about the perfect camel and leopard print.

In that vein, modern continued to be a key word. Kalinsky’s lineup started with three looks in the new camel, which he said he was used as much as possible because it “looks expensive,” evidenced through a relaxed, double-face trench atop new slouchy five-pocket flannel pants (later seen in dark wash denim), cashmere turtleneck, flat boots and a great new chocolate brown suede hobo bag. The idea expanded from suiting to outerwear, looking especially simple and chic in the form of a crisp camel button down with midi-length trouser skirt (a cropped rendition from last fall’s popular maxi version).

“It’s an evolution and things do work,” he said, expressing the importance of creating new iterations to successful styles, also seen across new knit jumpers and polos; poplin shirting; tailoring (one blazer in particular had technical performance lining); handbags; footwear, and strong outerwear. “The whole idea of the uniform dressing and the monochromatic feeling has worked really well.”

Two years in, Kalinsky’s point of view remains strong and straightforward. While many looks continued to uphold his knack for head-to-toe monochrome dress (a gray flannel maxishirt atop ultra-wide pant), the collections’ shades of black, white, navy, Army green and camel were also layered together to further emphasize versatile wardrobing. 

Across 24 looks, Kalinsky’s modern codes offered something for everyone with a relaxed, polished ease.

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