A vintage brown military jacket with gold buttons was the starting point for Nili Lotan. “I’ve done millions of military jackets but I’ve never done a brown one,” she said while previewing the collection. A simple piece, it lead her on a journey through menswear fabrics via the English countryside: checks, houndstooth, herringbones and more. But while Queen Elizabeth II in the countryside was on her mood board, Lotan was “not out on the farm here, I’m in New York,” she said, centering her urban customer.
Mannish lush fabrications formed a conversation around subtle textures, like a boxy band jacket in nubby brown tweed and gold buttons, a light-washed blue chambray shirt under and a caramel corduroy cargo pant or her chic take on a coverall jacket paired with a workman-style utility jean. Tailoring was in full force, loose but with sharp shoulders. Denim again was a big focus, continuing to evolve and elevate the staple. A gray thin pin-stripe suit paired with bow blouse could be topped off with one of her classic outerwear pieces like a belted trench with a slight cocoon shape or a leather jacket.
Once upon a time, Lotan worked with Ralph Lauren and she still finds inspiration from her time there, a link seen strongly here. She said it was a joy to be a part of his “world” and she, too, has a world built, continuing to subtly evolve what is modern urban dress-based.
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