From designer debuts to non-conforming shows and a fantastical finale expected from Thom Browne, here’s what’s hitting New York Fashion Week.
Today, 9th February, the Autumn/Winter 2024 fashion circus arrives in the Big Apple. With American labels being the original champs of sportswear, this weekend’s double booking of catwalks and the Superbowl will be mega, exploding with style inspiration, celebrity sightings and jaw-dropping performances.
Between now and Valentine’s Day, 97 brands will present collections despite several recognisable names – including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Calvin Klein – having dropped off this season’s schedule. The silver lining, though, is that there’s extra room for a diversity of emerging designers to shine.
Marc Jacobs jumpstarted events last Friday with his 40th-anniversary show, a doll-inspired collection featuring dramatic hair blowouts and giant furniture on the runway. Kicking off official NYFW, American-Vietnamese designer Peter Do today presents his highly anticipated sophomore collection for Helmut Lang (the digital show is available to stream on the brand’s socials). Tonight the fashion fleet will be out in force, flocking to the Grand Central Station where Tommy Hilfiger is presenting his show ‘A New York Moment’.
A crop of emerging designers will be making their debut at New York Fashion Week this season. Among them are Jane Wade who, by splicing workwear elements with office attire, deconstructs dress codes and makes subversive look smart, and Khazakstan-born designer Meruert Tolegan whose clothes are reminiscent of Simone Rocha, with an edge of The Virgin Suicides and Victorian sleepwear.
Other highlights are expected from CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year winner Willy Chavaria – known for injecting flamboyance into streetwear – and Ludovic de Saint Sernin whose radical, rhinestone pieces have been sported by Arca, Troye Sivan and Olivia Rodrigo. Also watch out for unconventional shows from New York’s hottest sustainable label Collina Strada and the much-loved Philip Lim who, for his second post-hiatus collection, is putting on an installation with contributions from various artists and creators.
The February 14th finale spot has been filled by Thom Browne who’s thrilled to once again show in his homeland after several seasons in Paris. The American designer’s Alice In Wonderland-like tailoring will provide a fantastical escape and much to discuss during the travel time to London – where Fashion Week is landing next.
Find out more about New York Fashion Week here.