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3.1 Phillip Lim RTW Fall 2024: Art and Fashion in the New York Groove

Phillip Lim has been in a particularly strong New York groove since last year’s official return to New York Fashion Week, with fall 2023’s immersive gallery and his spring 2024 runway show. This season, he’s coming to the final chapter of his New York-centered story.

“In the end, it took us to do this to really understand that we are a New York brand. We’ve always been, but sometimes you have imposter syndrome,” he said. 

Lim is certainly a New York-y designer, and his fall collection hit the nail on the head for all of the city’s on-the-go aspects with easily wearable, affordable, stylish dress. His first look, shot on model MJ Herrera, is what he’s proposing as quintessential without “making it too obvious,” as seen through the deep green faux fur cocoon-back coat, ribbed white capri leggings, wide poplin shirt and ID booties and handbag.

“It’s the New York attitude of mixing the high and low for all the different activities — it embodies all the components of ‘Live, work, love, play,’” he said.

Hybrid dressing continued to be a part of his dialogue, extending into two-in-one shirtdresses; mixed french terry and cargo tracksuits; utility jackets with cinched rib knit panels at the waist, and a new take on spring’s stellar red cape as black sherpa and ripstop cape-back vest, to name a few. Lim emphasized the importance of mixing all the season together — peppering in spring’s dainty, girlish layers with signature suiting (a few had a playful wink with allover clear micro sequins); striped and reversible ribbed knits, and utility layers, including denim. 

His most texturally rich, double-faced bouclé fringed styles (with inside jacquard stitches) were certainly a standout in the form of a turtleneck worn atop a hybrid mock-neck knit and organza with lace-insert dress or enveloping yet flattering coat with double metal-belt clasps. In addition, a tweedy black T-shirt with leather pocket and smart “3.1 snaps” — which Lim joked was his replacement for the French tuck — paired with a black maxi denim cargo skirt and graphic New York-slogan tote felt equally downtown cool.

To bring the collection to life, Lim staged the collection in four ”live,” “work,” “love,” and “play” vignettes within his second immersive art gallery experience in Chinatown. This time, he showcased thematic art by a multigenerational group of Asian American and Pacific Islander creatives alongside his collection displays (created in partnership with Indie Studios), which Lim described was about “celebrating and collaborating with our broader artist and creative communities.”

Titled “Intersections,” Lim featured the works of Dong Ping Wong and his team at Food Architects; photographer Jiro Konami; composer Sugar Vendil; graphic design studio Social Species, and original verses by young poets Fatima Ahman, Jessica Kim, Vanessa Niu and Serena Yang.

The exhibition will be open to the public on Saturday and Sunday for all New Yorkers to experience.

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